It begins as a smoldering sensation on your tongue, then ignites and halfway through the bite, it’s gone for the jugular of your sinuses and it’s all over but, literally, the crying. It sneaks up on you like a pride of lions surrounding an unsuspecting wildebeest at a watering hole, closing in as your mouth thinks it’s just another sunny day on the savannah. Using an oily stew of volatile spices, dip the unfried chicken in it before it goes into the hot grease and then use the same potion in the crust. It’s an ingenious, some might say diabolical, preparation. Nashville’s iconic hot chicken has captured the enthusiasm of millions of eaters who’ve never been any closer to Nashville than having their heart broken in a pickup truck in the rain. Which brings us to the pickles-and more-at a new chicken joint, Chuck’s Hot Chicken, in Maryland Heights.
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